Backpacking Vietnam’s Northwest in Winter – Travel Tips

Here we go! Viet Anh has just wrapped up a 10-day independent trip through Laos, and I cannot wait to share the highlights of my wanderings across the northern part of the country.

If I had to describe Laos, I would compare its beauty to that of a girl from the highlands. She is unaffected and pure, with eyes as clear and green as jade, as lovely as the waterfalls hidden deep in the forest. Her hair flows long, like the Mekong coming down from the north.

She keeps her beauty hidden behind vast green forests, so she remains mysterious, fresh and irresistible to anyone who loves to explore. Gentle, simple, quiet and peaceful – that is how Viet Anh would sum up Laos.

That is Laos as I hold it in my heart. As for Luang Prabang, the city I am about to take you to, it is the calm centre of it all – the girl’s very heart. It was the royal capital of the Lan Xang kingdom, founded almost seven centuries ago. It is a place of old streets where lines of monks pass on their morning alms round, of small, elegant houses with unmistakably French architecture in the old quarter, where visitors feel as if they have stumbled into a corner of Europe in the middle of Asia. There is sunset from the highest hill in town, watching the sun go down as the old capital lights up. And there are the ancient temples, decorated in a style you will find nowhere else but Luang Prabang.

Enough of the introduction – let me take you on a trip to Luang Prabang, Laos!

Where is Luang Prabang?

Luang Prabang is the name of the former royal capital, the birthplace of the Lan Xang kingdom (also known as the Land of a Million Elephants). It is the main hub of northern Laos and, despite its royal past, it remains small and sparsely populated (only about 22,000 people). You will barely hear an engine. Mornings here feel genuinely easy and open. Views are never blocked, because planning rules in Luang Prabang are designed to preserve the old character of the town (no building may exceed two storeys).

I picture Luang Prabang cradled in the arms of the Mekong, carrying its silt down from the old-growth forests of the north, sheltered by hills and mountains on every side. All of this has created a green, peaceful travel destination – nowhere else feels quite so “very Laos”!

What do I love most about Luang Prabang?

If you asked me what I love most, I would probably say the colour green: the green of the forests, the hills, the waterfalls and the rivers – and sometimes of people’s souls as well. Everyone who comes to Luang Prabang turns green too, and slows down. This town is remarkable!

There is one more thing I love besides the green: the elephant camps, where the animals are trained and handled without spiked sticks or whips. The mahouts connect with their elephants and guide them with their voice alone – something that leaves every visitor amazed and full of admiration. This is the one place where you can sit on an elephant’s neck, just you and the elephant.

And there is plenty more, which I will cover below: how to get to Luang Prabang, how to find an affordable hotel near the centre, where to eat, what to see, suggested itineraries, things to keep in mind, and more.

How do you get to Luang Prabang?

I travelled to Laos by coach via Dien Bien – a long, difficult and lonely route, and one I would not recommend.

Laos is mostly hills and mountains, especially in the north. There are currently two common ways to get there: overland (by coach, by car from Vietnam or by motorbike) and by air. britishbookpublishing.co.uk

Because Luang Prabang lies in northern Laos, it is easier to reach for travellers from northern Vietnam, like me, than for those in the central or southern regions.

That said, Laos is also perfect for a motorbike adventure. You will have the chance to stop off and experience the life of local communities along the highway linking Luang Prabang with Vang Vieng, Nong Khiaw, Oudomxay and beyond.

By coach from Hanoi

The only thing I really dread about travelling to Laos is the bus: 24 hours on a coach from Hanoi to Luang Prabang. But every obstacle and every hardship will be repaid in full by Laos, through its landscapes and its people. giaiphaptienich.com

There are two ways to travel from Hanoi to Luang Prabang:

(1) take a direct coach from Hanoi to Luang Prabang from Nuoc Ngam bus station

or (2) take the Hanoi – Dien Bien – Luang Prabang route.

Option (2) is harder and more tiring, because the coach from Dien Bien to Luang Prabang has seats rather than sleeper berths. It is only worth it if you want to break the journey in Nong Khiaw or Oudomxay. Otherwise, go straight from Hanoi to Luang Prabang!

The view from the coach between Dien Bien and Luang Prabang

Schedules for the Vietnam – Luang Prabang coaches (departing from Hanoi) are not fixed: some run on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, others on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and some run daily. Since Viet Anh could not obtain reliable timetables, the best advice is to go to Nuoc Ngam bus station and book your seat a few days before departure.

If you live far from Hanoi, you can book in advance by phone with the coach operator VIETTRANS – Hotline: 093 254 1114 – departing from Hanoi (with two pick-up points, the Hanoi Old Quarter and Nuoc Ngam bus station), crossing at the Nam Can border gate (Nghe An) and continuing to Luang Prabang.

Fare: from VND 900,000 to more than VND 1,000,000 one way (depending on the season)

Note: it is best to book your ticket two or three days in advance at Nuoc Ngam bus station (Hanoi)

Getting to Luang Prabang from Ho Chi Minh City

If you are starting from Ho Chi Minh City, you can:

(1) fly to Hanoi and take the coach to Laos from there.

Or (2) take a coach up to Kon Tum (Bo Y border gate), then catch a bus to Pakse and Vientiane and continue on to Luang Prabang.

Travelling to Luang Prabang on your own motorbike or car

Bringing your own vehicle into Laos is very straightforward. A friend of mine once rode his motorbike over and told me that all you need is the registration document in your own name plus an international driving permit. The border officers do not make it difficult; you simply pay the fee and go through.

For a motorbike, take your standard licence to the road transport department in your home city to exchange it; it takes about 7–10 days. I have not yet looked into the process for a car licence. osyamanbe.jp

Vietnam – Laos border crossings you can use:

Tay Trang (Dien Bien) – Loong Sap (Moc Chau) – Bo Y (Kon Tum) – Nam Can (Nghe An) – Cau Treo (Ha Tinh) – Cha Lo (Quang Binh) – Lao Bao (Quang Tri) – Na Meo (Thanh Hoa)

Note: a standard visa is accepted at all border gates. An e-visa is only accepted at three of them: Nam Can, Cau Treo and Bo Y.